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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.